Bulb Flowers are one of the most popular garden inhabitants. This is due in part to the wide variety of color, the relative ease of growth, and the fact that they can bring a wide variety of color to your garden at various times of year. While it is not accurate to refer to all ‘bulb flowers’ as growing from bulbs,  the one-size-fits-all term has become common when referring to three different types of propagation: bulbs, corms, and rhizomes. For our purposes we will refer to all of these plants as bulbs so that we can deal with them most efficiently. More information on the differences can be found here. Bulb flowers vary in the time of year that they need to be planted.  A few examples of each are listed below.

• Fall planted bulbs:  Amaryllis, Anemone, Astilbe, Crocosmia, Dafodils**, Easter Lily, Fresia, Hyacinth, Narcissus, Tiger Lilly. Spring planted Bulbs:  Anemone, Blazing Star (Liatris), Caladium, Cannas, Crocus*, Easter Lily*, Elephant Ears, Gladiola, Tiger Lilly, Daylilies

We will provide some basic guidelines here, but also recommend you consult your local independent garden center for detailed information about particular varieties and species suited for your region and growing conditions.

General guidelines for bulbs:

Soil – These plants need evenly moist, well draining soil. To achieve this, we recommend creating your own soil mix by following these directions. Mixing native soil 25/75 with potting mix or compost then treat the inside of the hole and the newly created soil mix with Monty’s Liquid Carbon soil conditioner.  Prepare the soil conditioner by diluting 2.5 -3 ounces in 1 gallon of water and either spraying the surface of the soil and the mix or by pouring it directly onto the surface until it is even moist, but not wet.

Separating Plants - All of these plants will benefit from regular thinning.  To do this, dig them after all foliage has died back naturally. Separate and replant, or save the roots/bulbs for replanting next season depending on the variety.

Storage - Bulbs/roots should be cleaned and allowed to dry slightly before storage. DO NOT allow them to become too dry.  Store them in a cool, dark environment.  Most will tend to do best if sandwiched in between layers of sphagnum to maintain suitable moisture levels. Temperatures for storage tend to do best around 40 Degrees. For this reason, root cellars or refrigerator tend to be preferred storage areas.  Caution should be used if you attempt to store them in a garage because these can become too warm and dry out before planting. Some growers like to use bulbs for indoor color.  Information on growing flowering bulbs out of season can be found here.

Bulbs – These plants store all of their energy in the root system (bulb).  Because of this, spent flowers and their stems should be removed.  However, do not cut the foliage.  Many of these varieties will produce showy colors in the fall.  Regardless, though, the photosynthesis that will take place throughout the remainder of the season will be used to create energy and store it in the roots for next season’s growth.   An application of Monty’s 4-15-12 or 2-15-15 should be applied to the soil and foliage about 2-3 weeks ahead of the removal of foliage.

Bulb Size – The size of the bulb is relative to the amount of energy the plant has stored throughout the season. The larger the bulb, the larger the resulting plant will be.  Smaller bulbs not only will produce smaller plants, but may result in plants that will not produce blooms until the second year.  When selecting bulbs from your garden center or when deciding which bulbs to keep for transplant purposes select only large bulbs with no obvious defects or blemishes.

Over-wintering - If not thinning is required many bulbs can over-winter in the ground. More tropical varieties should like Elephant Ears should only be allowed to over-winter in the ground  in southern-most climates in the US.  If soils typically freeze only in the top three inches, then a layer of mulch should be enough to protect them through the winter. If soils freeze to a depth of 3-6 inches, mulch heavily.  If your frost line generally is below 6 inches, consider digging the bulbs, storing over-winter, and replanting in the spring.  If you mulch and over-winter in the ground, remember to remove the mulch during the warmer days in spring to allow the soil to warm. Whether growing fall or spring planted bulbs (growth will develop during the following season), the basics are the same.

Planting

From Bulbs – Prepare bed or individual holes as indicated above in the section on ‘Soil’. Plants generally should be planted no more than 2-3 bulbs per hole. Each plant should be given enough space to grow, develop, and spread.  Soak bulbs overnight in a solution of Monty’s       2-15-12 diluted 1 ounce per gallon of water.  Remove bulbs from the solution and plant 2-3 inches deep (rhizome-based flowers should be planted 3-5 inches deep). Water-in with remaining solution. Mulching can assist with weed control and with maintaining proper moisture levels.

Care should be taken to plant crocuses sparsely as they will reproduce and fill in empty areas rapidly.

From transplants – Easter Lilies, Forced plants and Caladium tend to do very well as transplants.  When transplanting, remove plants from their containers and trim the roots if they appear root bound.  Then soak them in a solution of Monty’s 4-15-12 diluted 1 ounce per gallon of water and set to the side while you prepare the beds. To ready the beds, prepare soil as indicated above.  Once the beds are prepared plant bulbs normally and water in with remaining solution.  Mulching can assist with weed control and with maintaining proper moisture levels.

Caladium, particularly, tends to do best when started indoors and transplanted.  To do this plant them into peat pots and begin plants in well-lit area away from drafts about 6 weeks before your average date of last frost.  Feed weekly by misting the leaves with a solution of Monty’s 4-15-12 diluted to a rate of 2-3 drops per cup of water. When it is time to transplant, soak the entire plant, peat pot and all, in a solution of Monty’s 4-15-12 as above.  Then plant the pot in the soil so that the top of the peat pot is even or slightly below the soil level.  Cover, water-in, and mulch normally.

In Season – Many of these plants flower first, and then develop foliage.  In this situation, we recommend starting the season with Monty’s 2-15-15 and apply directly to the soil.  Mix the fertilizer at a rate of 1 ounce per gallon of water and use as part of your watering program.

For plants that develop foliage first and on all plants after the flowers and stems have died back and have been removed. Use Monty’s 8-16-8 to develop lush foliage and to help the plants begin storing energy for next season’s growth in this year’s bulbs. By adding 1 ounce of Monty’s Fertility product per gallon of water in a watering can, you can conveniently fertilize every time you water. If you prefer to water with a garden hose, you can dilute your Monty’s product 1:3 with water in the reservoir of a hose end applicator, then set the dial to 2 teaspoons and water normally.

In Fall – While we have broadly characterized this season as ‘fall’ it could vary widely in the exact time of the year depending on the region of the country you are in and the variety of bulbs you are growing.  For purposes of these instructions, assume ‘fall’ is once the foliage has begun to die back and the plant has left the vegetative stage of development is focusing its efforts on propagation. When the first signs of yellowing begin to appear in the foliage, make a final application of Monty’s Liquid Carbon (2.5 – 3 ounces per gallon of water) and Monty’s 4-15-12 (1 ounce per gallon of water).  These applications can be combined for convenience. If you intend to dig and store the bulbs for next season, do not dig the bulbs/roots until all the foliage has died back naturally.

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